A NOVEL ESCAPE
Gemma Harris
This autumn our TV screens are once more awash with love-struck heroes and heroines bounding about the countryside. So why not star in your own period drama by checking into one of these historic country piles? It’s all heaving bosoms, corsets and skin-tight jodhpurs on our TVs again, from ITV’s Wuthering Heights to the Beeb’s Emma (left). There’s no need to be a mere observer, though. With a little imagination, you too can join in the fun. All you need is the right location – preferably a grand old house where you can wow your other half with your horseriding/shooting/crumpet-scoffing skills. We’ve done the hard work for you and scouted out six perfect getaways in Scotland, all with oodles of history. But if you’re strapped for cash you can just get your boyfriend to stride about in riding boots and a long white shirt.
ANYONE FOR CROQUET?
More of a Merchant Ivory fan? Pack your candystriped blazer for a round of croquet on the front lawn at Myres Castle, Fife. The 44-acre estate includes a massive, perfectly manicured front lawn that’s ideal for the game. Champagne teas are offered on arrival, plus all the usual country pursuits: hunting, shooting, fishing and even that old Tudor favourite, falconry (no Jonathan Rhys Meyers in a doublet, though). On another note, don’t miss the new and rather surreal hippo sculptures yawning wide-jawed in the front pond, by Rory Bremner’s sculptress wife, Tessa Campbell Fraser.
Myres Castle is only a 45-minute drive from Edinburgh. To stay there, you’ll need to rent out the whole property. Groups as small as 12 can rent the castle for a minimum two-night stay. Myres Castle, Auchtermuchty, Fife. 01337 828350; www.myrescastle.com
A SPOT OF (CLAY PIGEON) SHOOTING
Nearly all Jane Austen’s heroes knew how to handle a rifle. On the “glorious 12th” of August, the London social season would end, and the likes of Darcy and Bingley would retire to the country to pepper pheasants with lead, keeping one eye on the Bennet birds, of course.
Sensitive new men may prefer to try their hands at clay pigeon shooting. Give it a go in the Scottish Highlands at Dornoch Castle Hotel, which sits in gardens worthy of a BBC period drama, opposite an imposing 13th-century cathedral, and offers 24 ensuite bedrooms. If you want to splash out, book one of the two deluxe rooms with spa baths hidden away in the oldest part of the castle.
Dornoch Castle Hotel, Castle Street, Dornoch, Sutherland.
01862 810216; www.dornochcastlehotel.com
TAKE THE SEA AIR
People in period dramas are forever taking the sea air for their nerves. Vanity Fair favourite Brighton has a few more slot machines these days, though, so it’s hardly a balm for the soul. And steer clear of Lyme Regis, a thoroughly rotten spot for the heroines of Persuasion and The French Lieutenant’s Woman. Instead, elope north of the border to picnic by the seaside at Ethie Castle, near Arbroath. Dating from the 14th century, the castle is one of Scotland’s oldest inhabited castles, and was immortalised in Sir Walter Scott’s tale of almost unrequited love, The Antiquary. Period drama plusses include an elegant Georgian drawing room and the Cardinal’s secret staircase.
Ethie Castle, Inverkeilor, Angus. 01241 830434;
www.ethiecastle.com
FOR GARDEN TRYSTS
Pemberley schmemberly… Culzean Castle, a Georgian pile in Ayrshire, has breathtaking grounds that would beat Darcy’s acres any day. The clematis-draped, 17thcentury walled garden tucked away behind a bank of trees is perfect for letter-swapping and shenanigans in the herbaceous borders. Then there’s a Swan Pond for genteel walks, clinches beneath parasols, and mating for life – for the swans at least. Colin Firth wannabes should resist the temptation to emerge dripping from the pond. The rangers might take a pop at you. If you like it dark and dangerous, snuggle up with a stash of whisky in real-life smugglers’ caves. These rough chambers cut into the rock beneath the castle were once used to store contraband booze coming in from the Firth of Clyde.
Culzean Castle & Country Park, Maybole, Ayrshire.
0844 493 2149; www.culzeanexperience.org
GO MAD IN THE TOWER
How about hiring your own 16th-century turret with a few close friends? Fenton Tower, near Edinburgh, is a beautifully restored fortif ied tower that can be booked in its entirety for eight to 12 guests, complete with chef and staff. Situated between the coasta l towns of Gullane and North Berwick, it’s an ideal location for country pursuits – if you’ve got the cash. The staff can organise fishing trips up the River Tweed and shooting parties from Octob e r to mid- December. Meanwhile, you might be able to squeeze in a Mrs Brownstyle romance with your gillie, or indulge in some cheeky goose-pimpled skinny dipping off the empt y bays round Gullane. Rooms can also be rented individually on a nightly basis.
Fenton Tower, Kingston,
Nor th Be rwi c k, near
Edinburgh. 01620 890089;
www.fentontower.com
LINGER OVER YOUR TOILET
In most period dramas, ladies spend plenty of time “at their toilet”. By this they mean primping and preening their pretty heads in the mirror, rather than anything less salubrious. This allows them vital time to gossip about the plot, while audiences are treated to powderpuffed cleavages and ivory complexions. You too can spend an extra-long time “at toilet” in Aveda’s first ever UK spa, set in the gorgeous neo-Gothic surroundings of Marr Hall, in the Glasgow region. Here you’ll find 11 Aveda treatment rooms, Vichy showers, a hair and nail salon, and a swimming pool. The f ive-star hotel has 53 beautiful bedrooms, many of which have fourposter beds.
Mar Hall Hotel, Bishopton, Renfrewshire. 0141 812 9999; www.marhall.com
ONE FOR HALLOWE’EN
If you’re heading up to Edinburgh in time for Hallowe’en, go spook yourself at Dalhousie Castle – a 13th-century fortress 20 minutes drive from town. Not only does it offer a fab little spa, wild woodland walks and a dungeon restaurant guarded by creepy suits of armour, it also has the ultimate castle accessory – its own ghost. Bumps, rustling and door slammings are said to be the doing of “The Grey Lady” – Lady Catherine, a mistress of one of the former owners. Unless, of course, they’re coming from the Bridal Suite. Four posters, a woodpanelled library and a falconry mews all add to the old-world atmos, but there are plenty of mod cons too, such as the in-bathroom TV screens.
Dalhousie Castle, Bonyrigg, Edinburgh. 01875 820153; www.dalhousiecastle.co.uk
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