SOLE SISTERS
A tale of two shoes
One is an exotic meeting point for East and West, and the other sunrise. But what do Turkey and Menorca have in common, besides their obvious charms of plentiful golden sunshine, azure waters and beautiful beaches?
Well for one thing , Menorcan senoritas and Turkish misses both have a long history of loving their shoes. The traditional Turkish slipper, which has adorned carefully pedicured feet for centuries, is stil l alive and –pardon the pun – kicking, while the Menorcan sandal (or abarca), once the preserve of leathery old peasants, is now cutting it with the young and fashionable.
SHOE-DOWN:
The Turkish Carik
Run your fingers along the playfully curled toe of a traditional Turkish slipper, or carik, and you might wonder how the national shoe came to have such a curious shape. The practical purpose of the carik’s great length is unknown. A symbol of status, the long, curled toe first appeared as long ago as 1500 BC and by the 13th century, it had reached lengths of up to 30 inches.
A slipper very much to be deliciously slipped onto the foot, the carik is footwear which indicates a degree of indulgence normally reserved for things that take place inside and behind firmly closed doors.
In classic Turkish leather work, crushed plant seeds and oils have long been used to treated cow hides in order to give strength, brightness, softness and, most importantly, colour to the material. Today, the traditional methods are still being followed and the shoes are often made from brightly-coloured leather. In some styles, silk tassels and fabrics, pom-poms or hand-made silver jewellery are added to the slippers.
Go into any of the buzzing bazaars in Turkish towns and you can find modern versions of the footwear once favoured by sultans, their wives and concubines, and even dashing army captains, at a time when the Turks ruled a sizeable portion of the known world.
WHERE TO BUY THEM: Try the bazaars in towns such as Fethiye, Marmaris and Kas for a good choice. You’ll see them alongside the other traditional handicrafts, usually hanging on a string in clusters in the same way that the stallholders display aubergines and peppers. Designer Janet Chisholm also has a line of luxury shoes, inspired by the Turkish slipper-making craft. For more information visit hanimefendi.net.
WHERE TO WALK YOUR NEW SHOES: You’ve shopped in Dalaman, so now what? Perhaps soothe your aching feet with a stroll on a stretch of unspoilt sand – the stunning Turtle Beach at nearby Iztuzu is both a place of idyllic beauty and a protected nesting spot for the endangered loggerhead turtle.
For a more active outing – you might want to leave the cariks at home for this – you can go for a hike on the ancient Lycian Way. Or for something less strenuous, potter around the historical ruins at Patara, which lie half-submerged beneath centuries of wind-blown sand. Its beach is also one of the best in Turkey.
You might also want to treat your tired tootsies to a dip in the thermal springs at the spa in Ilica, or give them a thorough scrub in a traditional Turkish bath.
When evening comes, relax in the Ottoman Bar in Fethiye, an old-fashioned place on two levels which plays a fusion of traditional Turkish music and the modern hits. Put your feet up and try smoking a Turkish shisha pipe – flavours include apple, cappuccino and strawberry. Once you’re well rested, you can get on your toes at the Red Point Club in the centre of Kas, an old barn where DJs spin sunny tunes after midnight.
The Menorcan Abarca
The abarca has existed for centuries, its origins lying with Menorcan farmers. The landscape here is hilly and stoney, and the locals started to wrap bits of leather around their feet to give them protection and a better grip. Over time this was refined and developed into a proper sandal. Later, they started using recycled tyres for soles, making the sandals more durable and flexible. The island’s fishermen also got in on the act, producing their own version with cloth instead of leather.
For years the abarca could only be found in Menorca, but when tourists started to discover the island’s many charms, it began appearing further afield. The style spread to the Spanish mainland and can now be found in shoe-racks across the country. Even Queen Sofia has been spotted wearing a pair. These days the sandals are produced by many different shoe manufacturers, but only a few are still made by hand in Menorca, maintaining the old tradition of artisanship.
The good news for the style-conscious is that the abarca sandal is a much more comfortable and fashionable item than it was in its bumpkin days. The characteristic peephole design means you can show off your holiday pedicure and the cool, kooky design of Spanish footwear fits in very well on the British high street, as you can see from the popularity of Camper shoes.
WHERE TO BUY: You can get your hands on traditional sandals in shops all over the island, but be sure to look for the ones that are made by local artisans. Alternatively, designer Anette Kragdahl has updated the traditional albaca, producing it in patent leather, animal print and a zillion different colours to fit every outfit or occasion. Visit lasuela.dk for more details.
WHERE TO WALK YOUR NEW SHOES: You can play fashionable footsie during a romantic supper in the gardens of El Jardin in Ciutadella, where the modern Catalan cuisine is served up with a great choice of wines. Next, take a load off at El Mirador bar in Mao, enjoying views over the harbour alongside the beautiful people. Later on, you can shake your thing to Balaeric beats, prehistoric style, at Cova d’en Xoroi – a club which pulses away in a huge cave on a cliff overlooking the sea near Cala N’Porter.
Your abarcas will also come in handy for dancing in the street during fiesta season. Throughout the summer, Menorca’s towns each have their own blow-out, starting in Ciutadella on 23 June, and ending in Mao on 9 September. Get the low-down at www.emenorca.org.
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