Little Black Book: Italy - Venice
There’s more to life in La Serenissima than canals and campaniles
If you’re thinking about making a big move outside the UK – or just staying away for an extended period – our mini-directory provides you with all the destination addresses, phone numbers and other practical information that you’ll need to get set up.
Your new address
Your first priority is finding a place to live and this spacious apartment is in Dorsoduro – one of the six sestieri (or districts) into which Venice is divided. It is located centrally, close to the Santa Croce shopping district, and just eight minutes’ walk from the main bus and railway stations.
It includes a living room, kitchen, three bedrooms, two bathrooms, and lots of storage. As well as views over the courtyard and nearby canal, the owner also has access to an altana (or roof terrace) and a beautiful shared garden – a real rarity in Venice.
The property is in good condition, although the bathrooms and kitchen could probably do with some TLC. Price £435,000 From Casa Travella Ltd www.casatravella.com | 01322 660 988
Your contacts
BANKS
There are plenty of ATMs dotted around the city, but if you’re looking for an actual bank, Banca Antonveneta has four branches in Venice (anton-veneta.it), while Banca D’Italia has a branch in the San Marco district. Banks usually open from Monday to Friday, 8.30am until 1.30pm and then from 2.30pm until 3.30 or 4pm.
BARS AND NIGHTLIFE
While the Venetian nightlife isn’t the most dynamic, you can tip back the Bellinis in style at the Centrale Restaurant and Lounge (1659 San Marco; Tel: + 39 041 296 0664, centrale-lounge.com), one of the city’s trendiest watering holes.
For the best choice after dark, head for the Fondamenta de la Misericordia, where, among others, you’ll find the lively Iguana Mexican bar and restaurant (2515 Cannaregio).
BEACHES
It may be better known for its historic architecture Venice also has a few good beaches where you can catch some sun and swim in the waters of the Adriatic. The locals tend to favour those on Lido island and Punta Sabbioni, both of which can be easily reached on the Vaporetto (water bus).
CINEMAS AND THEATRES
There are many theatres in Venice, including the Teatro Stabile Del Veneto, the Teatro Fondamenta Nuove and the Teatro Toniolo. However, if you want a cinema, you’ll have to head for the mainland – the nearest are the City-plexes in Mestre (www.mestrecityplex.it).
CULTURE
It goes without saying that culture vultures will be in their element in Venice.
t Mark’s Square is the main focal point of the city, where you’ll find the Basilica, with its iconic campanile (or bell tower), and the Doge’s Palace.
The Galleria dell’Accademia – one of the world’s finest art galleries – is another must-see (Tel: +39 041 522 2247, www.gallerieaccademia.org).
Island-hopping on the Vaporetto will take you to some of the city’s more obscure attractions, such as Murano, the island of the glass-blowers, and Torcello, which has some of the oldest settlements on the lagoon and offers a fascinating insight into the past.
HOSPITALS
Venice may lack some amenities, but it has a full complement of emergency services, as you can see from all the water ambulances – as well as the specialised boats for the Carabiniere (police) and fire-fighters – zooming up and down the canals.
The Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo (Campo SS.Giovanni e Paolo, 6777 Castello; Tel: +39 041 529 4111) is the main city hospital, located in the historic Scuola Grande di San Marco, a historic charitable institution.
If you have a less serious injury, or you’re just looking for a plaster, head to the Punto di Guardia Medica Centro Storico (5342/a San Marco; Tel: +39 041 529 4060) – a first-aid station in the centre of the San Marco district.
RESTAURANTS
You need to tread carefully when choosing a restaurant in Venice, and in most cases you’ll fare better if you get off the beaten track. Try the San Polo district, where the Osteria Antico Dolo (778 Ruga Rialto; Tel: +39 041 522 6546; www.anticodolo.it) serves fabulous seppie in nero (squid in ink). For more great seafood, try Bandierette (Barbaria delle Tole, 6671 Castello; Tel: +39 041 522 0619). For a snack, the Cantina do Mori (429 San Polo; Tel: +39 041 522 5401) offers fantastic tramezzini (sandwiches).
SCHOOLS
There are more colleges in Venice teaching Italian to foreigners than there are schools for the local children. If you’ve got a family in tow the European School of Venice offers English-language nursery and primary education for children aged between two and 10 years (Tel: +39 041 546 1598; www.europeansv.eu).
SHOPS
There are plenty of designer clothes and jewellery shops in Venice – Calle Larga XXII Marzo is where you’ll find Valentino rubbing shoulders with Gucci – but where do you go if you want a pint of milk?
For many Venetians, most of the grocery shopping is done at the Rialto market, just off the Rialto Bridge. As well as fruit and vegetables, you’ll get some amazing fresh fish here.
If you’re looking for a supermarket, head to Billa (1491 Dorsoduro; Tel +39 041 522 6187). And for soft furnishings and household goods, try the department store Coin (5787 Cannaregio, Tel: + 39 041 520 3581, coin.it).
SWIMMING POOLS AND GYMS
There are quite a few palestra (sports centres) and piscine (swimming pools) in Venice. The council-run San Alvise pool is in the Cannaregio district (3163 Cannaregio; Tel: +39 041 715 650). Sports centres include the Centro Sportivo Sacca S. Biagio (Sacca S. Biagio Sacca Fisola; Tel: +39 041 520 3953) and the Palestra Ex Umberto I (Fondamenta dei Riformati, 3144 Cannaregio).
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