Sardinia with a twist
by Stephanie Rafanelli
Beneath the red-tiled skyline of Barceloneta, fishermen chat in a Catalan dialect about last night’s catch. Arms gesture – caffé in one hand, cigarette in the other.
The briny air sweeps in from the Mediterranean through the narrow cobbled lanes of the old town, mixing with the seductive aroma of garlic that descends from the wrought iron balconies above. It’s 8am but lobster pots all over the city are already boiling in preparation for dinar or lunch: a tasty plate of aragosta alla Catalana or paella.
Yet despite the Hispanic churches, mosaic domes and Gothic palazzos that make up this flamboyant old town, the medieval fortress city of Alghero – nicknamed ‘Barceloneta’ by its inhabitants – sits not in coastal Spain, but on the rugged North West coast of Sardinia, Italy’s second largest isle.
Viva the mix
SURROUNDED on three sides by deep emerald waters, the walled fishing port lived under Catalan rule for almost 400 years after the 30-year Aragon-Catalan siege finally took Alghero from the Genoese in 1353. In the 15th century, all Sardinians were expelled from the city and replaced with settlers from Barcelona, Valencia and Mallorca. As a result, today’s Algheresi – descendents of the Spanish conquerors – bear greater resemblance in language, cuisine and culture to the people of the Iberian peninsular than to their fellow Sardinians.
ALGHERO was once the capital of the Mediterranean’s ‘Coral Riviera’ and for centuries its rich reefs attracted Neapolitan fishermen trained in the perilous art of coral diving. It is ultimately this mix of two of Europe’s most flamboyant fishing ports – Barcelona and Naples – that gives Alghero its charming appeal, famed fish-based cuisine and south Mediterranean flavour.
The Old Town
ALGHERO’S old town – Il Centro Storico in Italian or El Casc Antic in Catalan – lies within an old medieval fortification which faces out to sea in three directions: north, west and south.
THE BEST introduction to the old town is a walk along the old battlements from Torre Dell’ Espero Reial (‘The Tower of Royal Ambition’) to the derelict but impressive Forte de la Magdalena to the far north of the harbour. The town’s fishermen now use this as a base for repairing their boats but this only adds to the scene.
THE INFLUENCE of centuries of Catalan rule is apparent in the old town’s architecture. Il Cattedrale de Santa Maria (in Piazza Duomo) was built along Catalan Gothic lines in the 16th century but then suffered unsympathetic baroque additions by the Savoy royal family in the late 18th century.
DAYS CAN BE SPENT in Alghero’s old town wandering aimlessly past Gothic churches, tiny cafés and pastel-coloured fishermen’s houses with their charmingly faded wooden shutters and neatly tended balconies. All of Alghero’s streets have both Catalan and Italian names and Algheresi switch between them interchangeably: Piazza Civica is also called Prassa del Pou Vel, Via Umberto is Carrer de Bonaire, and Via Carlo Alberto, Les Quatre Cantonades.
The Coral Coast
THE STREETS of the old town – tall and narrow like mountain gorges – are littered with jewellers and artisan workshops. Pop your head into wooden doorways to witness local coral workmanship. Marogna’s in Piazza Civica shows rare and antique pieces but there are many boutiques to choose from, each splashed with the brightly coloured coral once thought to be congealed Medusa’s blood. The dark red coral fished off the coast around Capo Caccia is thought to be of the highest quality in the Mediterranean. Today, however, the reef is vastly depleted, and coral fishing is now strictly controlled with only 10 boats permitted to fish during the summer months.
DIVING for coral is still a hazardous business. Fisherman must descend to over 135m depth to reach the coral floor and must return to the decompression chamber to avoid the bends.
Seafood To Swoon For
THE RUGGED northwesterly coastline between Capo Caccia, Alghero and Bosa further south is known in Sardinia for its famous lobster and sea urchin crop. Fishing practises here are deeply rooted in Catalan tradition. During the traditional Catalan sea urchin festival – La Sagra del Bogamari, which runs between January and February – the cries of local fishermen still echo through Alghero’s narrow lanes as they did in medieval times: ‘Bo-ga-mari! Bo-ga-mari!’
THE CITY’S reputation for seafood dishes is unsurpassed on the island with a varied mix of Sardinian and Catalan-influenced dishes on offer from spaghetti al ricci (spaghetti with fresh sea urchins) and sardine al pomodoro (sardines in tomato sauce). Bottarga (mullet roe) – a regional speciality – is grated on top of spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams) for an extra dose of fishiness.
WHERE TO EAT
AL TUGURI is popular with the Algheresi and serves traditional Catalan seafood dishes including aragosta alla Catalana
(Catalan-style lobster).
113, VIA MAIORCA.
+39 079 976 772
ALTURGURI.IT
POSADA DEL MAR has a house speciality of sea urchins served piping hot on pretty flowered tablecloths.
29, VICOLO ADAMI
+39 079 979 579
ANDREINI serves fish and local cheese under a giant fig tree. Wash down with a bottle of local red Tanca Farra.
45, VIA ARDUINO
+39 079 982 098
24 hours in ALGHERO
START THE DAY With a late breakfast of pecorino cheese and local honey taken from your terracotta balcony at Hotel Villa Las Tronas.
AFTER BREAKFAST Walk the battlements of the old fortress from south to north finishing at Forte de la Magdalena.
FOR LUNCH Have an informal meal at Alghero’s favourite deli, Il Ghiotto, with its five daily piatti. Get there early before the locals arrive or you’ll never get in. 23, PIAZZA CIVICA +39 079 974 820
IN THE AFTERNOON Take the short ride along the Lido coast road to the Maria Pia beach. Protected by a thick pine wood, the beach has beautiful, fine white sand with ample shade and excellent protection from sea breezes. Go swimming, snorkelling or simply speand a few hours relaxing in the sun.
AT SUNSET Take in the view across the bay from Bastione Cristoforo Colombo.
FOR DINNER Feast on local lobster, squid and bottarga at the cosy Catalan flavoured Al Tuguri.
END THE DAY With a nightcap (or two) with the Algheresi at Café Constantino in Piazza Civica: a couple of glasses of Nonnu Eloghu should earn you some local respect.
Fiesta Not Siesta!
WHILE the nightlife in Barceloneta is rather sedate compared to its modern day namesake Barcelona, Alghero has plenty of traditional Catalan festivals throughout the year. One of the best is the Easter Holy Week (March/April): the town’s narrow alleyways and piazzas come alive with torch-lit processions while statues of Christ and the Virgin Mary are paraded through the streets down to the sea.
In July and August, the city hosts Estate Musicale Internazionale di Alghero, a classical music festival; but true seafood lovers and ‘lobsterphiles’ will return in September for La Sagra Dei Pescatori, the annual food fair which celebrates Alghero’s 555-year-old Catalan fishing tradition.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Let the soulful sound of sea soothe you to sleep at Villa Las Tronas, a 19th century art nouveau villa and former holiday home of the Italian royal family. WWW.HOTELVILLALASTRONAS.IT
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