Our Gourmet Expert’s Guide to Avignon
From high-priced fine dining to the hidden gems that locals love, Andrew Catchpole goes in search of Avignon’s ultimate gourmet experiences, washed down with the region’s famous wines
by Andrew Catchpole
For most visitors Avignon conjures up an evocative mix of medieval ramparts, fortified towers and the splendour of old Papal palaces. But beyond the grandeur lies a simpler, heartier soul rooted in the rhythms of local Provençal life and, this being France, a love of wine and food.
Just lounging about, sipping a tangy citron pressé, pungent pastis or crisp rosé at Le Cid Café on Place de l’Horlage under the warm southern sun is enough of a reminder that Provençal cuisine is all about bold rustic flavours in both its food and wine. It’s a fantastic blend of Mediterranean, peasant tradition and Italian influences stretching back to the time when this area was a province of Rome.
Garlic lovers can feast on plump fresh vegetables smothered in aioli, a lemony mayonnaise laden with crushed cloves. The ubiquitous ratatouille shows off the ripe local tomatoes, peppers and aubergines to perfection, smothered in olive oil and fragrant herbs, while dishes such as the robust fish stew bourride, rich boeuf en daube stewed in red wine, the anchovy, olive and caper-laden tapenade spread and spicy, ripe red wines from the nearby Rhône are classics of the region.
Avignon itself has become something of a foodie centre with the sublime cooking of Alain Ducasse-trained chef Daniel Hébet at La Mirande as its epicentre in an elegant 18th-century cardinal’s palace. Easier on the wallet, though no less flavoursome, is the delightful L’Epicerie whose terrace tables nestle beneath the Église St Pierre. Here a generous platter of Provençal starters plus mains like red mullet with tapenade or beef and olive daube, all washed down with pichets of local wine, can be had for €20 a head. The slightly pricier Rose au Petit Bedon on Rue Joseph Vernet is also a good bet for traditionally rooted, seasonal Provençal cuisine where dishes such as the salt-cod, oil and potate mash brandade de morue and tender grilled local lamb really hit the mark, especially out of season.
But you don’t have to shell out much to get a flavour of the local food and understand why Provençe is called the ‘Garden of France’. Avignon’s main market, or Les Halles, is at Place Pie, where the colourful fruit and vegetables are piled enticingly high, from purpley-black aubergines and gnarled but sweet peppers to the juiciest, most flavoursome peaches, apricots and figs you may ever try. Along with the boulangeries, fromageries and charcuteries dotted about nearby, it’s a perfect place to stock up for an impromptu feast. And, if you are making a trip to one of the beautifully preserved towns like Orange or Arles nearby, it’s also well worth coinciding with market day when these historic Roman cities come alive.
The incredibly well preserved Roman theatre in Orange and the famous amphitheatre in Arles are other great reasons to visit, but you can eat well in either place too. Le Forum on Rue Mazeau in Orange serves simple but impressive local food, while Au Bryn du Thym, behind Place du Forum in Arles, rustled up a tantalising Provençal starter platter followed by a sublime dish of duck confit and figs on my last visit.
Now, the locals wouldn’t consider indulging in all this eating without a generous flow of local wine, and Avignon is superbly placed in what can seem like a sea of vines. There are juicy, herby reds and whites from the striking villages of the Luberon to the east; crisp, dry rosés made in vineyards stretching from around the dramatic craggy outcrops of Les Baux to the south all the way to the Côtes d’Azur; and, of ese, right on Avignon’s doorstep is the most famous Rhône appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The latter is a beautiful village with the added attraction of vineyards rolling down the hillsides covering the striking orange soils and large round pebbles that act like storage heaters for the ripening of up to 13 different grape varieties that can be blended to make these wines.
Tourist offices either here or in Avignon have ample information on local wine routes, including which caves are open for tasting and the sale of wine. A great way to orientate yourself is to start at Le Domaine du Père Caboche on Rue Joseph Ducos, then strike out and explore the wine estates dotted around the outskirts of town. La Nerthe, Beaucastel, Rayas, Les Cailloux and Tardieu-Laurent are just a few of the top names to look out for on your travels.
A little further afield is the cluster of pretty villages strung out along the foot of the craggy limestone hills centred on Vacqueyras, Séguret, Gigondas and Muscat de Beaumes de Venise. These and other Côtes du Rhône Villages have been gaining recognition for making wines often as good as Châteauneuf but, so far, without the steep price tags that go with global fame. Again, tourist offices in Avignon, Gigondas and the nearby town of Vaison-la-Romaine have details of the wine routes along with good suggestions of where to eat and stay. Wine-wise, Santa Duc and Brusset in Gigondas and La Monadière in Vacqueyras are among names to seek out, while Durban in Beaumes de Venise makes a classic Muscat for which the village is best known.
BUYING IN AVIGNON
- Châteauneuf-du Pape may be the most famous name but these days it comes with a suitably elevated price tag.
- For a similar style of robust, spicy red, look out for wines from the Côtes du Rhône Villages bearing the words ‘Appellation Contrôlée’ or ‘AC’ with a single village name such as Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Ségurat, Rasteau, Cairanne and Valréas.
- For a light, uncomplicated wine try those from Côtes du Ventoux, Côtes du Luberon and Coteaux du Tricastin.
- The onion-skin coloured rosé from Tavel comes into its own with robust local food.
BUYING BACK HOME
The best buys on the shelves at the moment are: The crisp Château de Panéry Côtes du Rhône Rosé (£5.99, Majestic).
The herby Cairanne Coteau Brûlé Côtes du Rhône Villages (£5.99, Tesco).
The spicy Caves St-Pierre Gigondas (£11.99, Tesco). The complex Châteauneufdu-Pape Le Chemin des Mulets from Perrin (£14.99, Waitrose).
AND ONLINE…
Anyone who develops a serious taste for the wines of the southern Rhône should get in touch with Rhône specialists such as Yapp Brothers [WWW.YAPP.CO.UK] or Stone, Vine & Sun [WWW.STONEVINE.CO.UK] both of whom deliver country-wide.
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