MIGHTY APHRODITE
A romantically wild corner of Cyprus, Paphos is the birthplace of the Greek goddess of love and a delicious delight for two By Julie Alpine
IN HONOUR OF VALENTINE’S DAY, WHY NOT HEAD TO CYPRUS, THE hometown of Aphrodite, the goddess of love and beauty? Cyprus also inspired Mark Antony to new romantic heights: he thought the entire country would make the perfect gift for his beloved Cleopatra. Okay, a whole island might stretch the budget, but a holiday there should get you lots of Brownie points, especially now, when most of us are more than ready to trade in our winter woollies for a bikini. The Cypriot winter is short, sunny and mild, with an average daytime temperature of around 16ºC to 20ºC. And Cyprus still retains its playground-of-the-gods status today. Between January and March, it’s possible to work on your tan on a secluded sandy beach in the morning and embark on a James Bond-inspired skiing adventure in the afternoon.
According to Greek mythology, Aphrodite rose from the sea in the southwestern Paphos region, and it’s not hard to see why she chose this area to emerge from the foam on her seashell. Today, its intoxicating blend of unspoilt wilderness, picture-postcard sunsets, and sports and leisure activities make the city of Paphos and its surrounding area a dream-come-true getaway. Discover some of the island’s most seductive attractions, and follow in the footsteps of the goddess Aphrodite herself, whose myth is deeply woven into this romantic land.
JUST FOR LOVERS
Modern-day lovers should start with a trip to Petra Tou Romiou, 20 minutes east of Paphos International Airport, on a well-signposted but barren spot of coastline. Commonly referred to as ‘Aphrodite’s Rock’, this is where the goddess is said to have emerged from the sea. Follow a tunnel under the main road to a pretty, pebbly beach where the turquoise water begs visitors to ignore the shelves of snow-globe goddess souvenirs and get their toes wet. If you swim around the rock three times at midnight under a full moon you’ll be granted eternal youth – or so goes the myth.
Just five minutes from Petra Tou Romiou, you’ll find Aphrodite Hills (+357 2682 8000; www.aphroditehills.com), a five-star resort and home to The Retreat, the first destination spa on the island. It might not be one of Aphrodite’s mythical haunts, but you just know she would approve of the extensive range of indulgent, pampering treatments, all served up in serene Greco-Roman surroundings.
In the dedicated couples’ suite, you and your partner can simultaneously enjoy a Swedish massage (from €60 per person), Thai herbal therapy (from €85 per person) or Royal Thai massage (€135 per person).
For a truly unique treatment, try the spa’s signature 75-minute Thermae Experience. Couples start with the low-humidity Laconium heat room, followed by the traditionally steamy Caldarium sauna, and then move on to the ornate, domed hammam, all interspersed by cooling showers. Especially thrilling is the two-minute visit to the chilly Frigidarium, in which you get the chance to rub ice shavings on your partner. Your last stop is the Tepidarium, where you relax on gently heated wooden loungers. The only thing missing is a toga-draped lovely serving peeled grapes as you reach a state of nirvana.
MOUNTAIN HIGHS
Take a detour to the Troodos Mountains, which occupy the central southern part of the island. Mount Olympus, the highest peak at 9,576 ft, is easily distinguished by the huge white domes of a British-controlled radar station, which look like giant golf balls ready to be used by one of the Titans. Depending on the weather, the ski season usually starts sometime in January and lasts right until the end of March.
The Troodos Skiing Centre, run and maintained by the Cyprus Ski Club (+357 2244 9837; www.cyprusski.com), is located in a col between the two highest peaks. Troodos is certainly no Chamonix, but for those northern Europeans who come to Cyprus to enjoy some warm sun even in the middle of February, it offers a very welcome skiing oasis.
If skiing’s not your thing, you can opt to descend by mountain bike over the lower, pine-clad slopes, where rare Bonelli’s eagles soar high above. BikeTrekCyprus (+357 2691 3676; www.biketrekcyprus.com) has bikes for hire from as little as €15 per day, and daily guided tours from €60 per day. It’s a great spot for hiking, and couples who travel by foot are more likely to catch a sighting of moufflon, the curly-horned deer indigenous to the island.
BEAUTIFUL BATHING
From the mountains, head northwest towards the coast, passing through small villages and the occasional herd of brown and white goats. You won’t want to miss the Baths of Aphrodite, a natural grotto found at Polis, on the Akamas peninsula at the most westerly point of Cyprus. This is one of the last remaining wild spots on the island and is home to 530 species of plants, gorgeous sandy beaches and deep ravines.
Although one of the island’s most popular attractions, the Baths are much quieter in the low season than in summer. Scramble up the wildflower-strewn hillside on your way to the small, dark well where, legend has it, Aphrodite bathed with her many lovers. Those who haven’t already swum three times round Aphrodite’s Rock can splash the admittedly murky water of the Baths on their face for another shot at eternal youth. Or do some serious sun-worshipping instead. Polis and nearby Latchi both have long stretches of part-sand, part-pebble beaches and crystal-clear water that also make them hugely popular with scuba divers.
FOOD OF LOVE
Having looped all the way back to Paphos, what could be more unforgettable than cantering along a deserted beach, just you, your loved one and your trusty steeds? George’s Ranch (+357 9964 7790 or +357 2662 1064), situated about 15 miles west of the town, offers treks to the stunningly white Kantarkastoi sea caves on the beach. Then make for Paphos harbour, where you can recharge with some of the best frappé (iced coffee) in town. Take in the excellently preserved mosaics that were discovered by accident in the 1960s by a farmer ploughing his field. Originally laid down in the 3rd century BC as floors for the villas of Roman nobles, the scenes depicting the various love antics of the gods are considered to be the best in the eastern Mediterranean.
Soaking up all that history is hungry work, so sate your appetite at a cluster of tavernas overlooking the pretty harbour and its Byzantine fort. The Captain’s View (Myrra Court 23; +357 2622 1716) and the Pelican Tavern (102 Apostolou Pavlou; +357 2695 2500) serve up traditional fare; for something slightly more modern, dine at 7 St Georges Tavern (Yeroskepos, +357 2696 3176; www.7stgeorgestavern.com). A range of 20 innovative meze dishes are made from the freshest of ingredients – from organic capers and grilled halloumi to beef stifado and calamari. You’ll need to come up with a way to work it all off afterwards, though. Judging by all the statues in the souvenir shops, that Aphrodite didn’t eat too many mezes…
GETTING HITCHED ON THE ISLAND OF LOVE
What better way to honour Aphrodite, the love goddess, than by getting married in Cyprus? The author wed in May 2006 in an outdoor ceremony at Peyia town hall, just 20 minutes west of Paphos in the village of Nikokleia. A reception at the Vasilias Nikoklis Inn followed, with traditional bouzouki players for entertainment and blooming jasmine scenting the air.
Marriages on Cyprus are relatively straightforward for UK citizens, with a ‘Special License’ being granted after a minimum residency stay of three working days. Both civil ceremonies and church weddings are available, with some hotels offering the whole package on-site. Or you could choose a more rustic approach as the author did. For up-to-date information on getting married in Cyprus, see www.visitcyprus.org.cy.
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