HORSERIDING IN THE ALGARVE
CANTERING TALES
Keen amateur rider John Ruler discovers the charms of rural Portugal on the back of an elegant Lusitano
SURELY it’s every horse rider’s dream to pound through the surf that laps Portugal’s seemingly soft, sandy beaches. To do so on a Lusitano, the nation’s “warrior horse”, is simply adding icing to the equestrian cake.
For not only are you riding a breed dating back some 5,000 years, but you are testing its delicate skills, which you find are second nature. Just how highly honed these are came to me when I gambled that Max, my trusty steed with a perverse dislike of watery hazards, would take dramatic steps to avoid a giant puddle – even at a gallop.
He did, neatly weaving his way instead among the surrounding eucalyptus trees, a credit to the Lusitano’s natural dressage ability.
There’s no doubt that this handsome hot-blooded breed brings an extra dimension to any Portuguese riding trip. Where better to take lessons than in a country where the Lusitano – the Roman name for Portugal – can be found in a number of reliable centres, mainly with English, or English-speaking, instructors.
My base was the Caminhos do Alentejo riding centre (CDA for short), run by William and Ilana Richards to pursue their dream of “riding the Lusitano horse in this little corner of paradise.” I won’t argue with that. The farmland setting, with nine guestrooms built of traditional thick mud and stone walls, guaranteeing coolness in the summer and warmth in the winter, lies close to the tiny coastal resort of Milfontes in the Alentejo region.
A mere two hours’ drive from Faro airport, this sparsely populated area, has been declared a protected landscape, where the climate provides the perfect conditions for over 750 species of plant life. Of these, 48 are only found in Portugal and 12 only in the Alentejo.
Predominantly a patchwork of vast coastal dunes and pastures, cork and eucalyptus forests, citrus groves and steep, rugged hills with streams, the region provides the perfect backdrop for the relaxing pace set by small groups of up to eight intermediate riders, often weekend riders capable of controlling a horse at the walk, trot and canter.
Whichever route you take, largely depending on season and choice of pace and time spent in the saddle, the trails positively bristle with local colour and culture – uniquely experienced from the saddle and covering around 26-38 kilometres per day.
Day one is marked by adapting to the gait of the Lusitanos, which means a briskish walk using a longer rein than usual. It is also the perfect prelude to a setting of stringy barked eucalyptus trees, secluded springs and mountain oak.
My eight-day Mira Atlantic ride then heads into the Cela Valley, following an overgrown stream and springs, home to sunbathing turtles. This eventually opens on to a plain and a series of fast trots and long steady canters on a sandy track.
Successive daily sorties take on their own distinctive tone, ranging from the pastoral pleasures of the Cercal Ridge – with a much needed pitstop at the tiny town of São Luis – to Milhão beach where vivid, blue Atlantic rollers crash on billowing swathes of soft, yellow sand.
Time it right and the horses will paddle in the sea against a setting sun; subject to weather, the ride will end here with a glass of vinho verde and a meal. Riders can either return to base, or stay overnight in small, two-man tents with the horses grazing nearby.
There’s time out, too, for a mini-bus trip to Milfontes, a quiet resort beloved by the Portuguese and, together with the neighbouring Mira River, the spawning ground for a huge variety of fish, oysters, crabs and lobsters, hence an abundance of seafood restaurants.
Better still, enjoy the culinary skills of Fatima, the centre’s chef, famed for her traditional Portuguese recipes. Just right for relaxing over after a long day in the comfortable English endurance saddle, riders regaling each other with tales of derring-do.
Individual memories for me include spotting white egrets taking off from around a herd of cattle and the coolness of the cork oak forest with its strange giant ferns. I also recall admiring blue pimpernels happily blooming early in December, a tribute to a microclimate where summertime temperatures range from 24 to 28 centigrade and winter highs hover around 18.
Keep your eyes skinned for lynx, wild cats, foxes and the rarely seen wolf; badgers, martens, genet, otters and the tenacious wild boar can also be spotted.
I won’t swear you will see them all. But you will fall for the hidden glens of almost translucent green, the silence broken by the occasional bark of a dog as you come across a shepherd and his goatherd.
And you’ll most certainly miss the magic of your Lusitano.
WHERE TO SADDLE UP
Caminhos do Alentejo (Alentejo)
John Ruler took the The Mira Atlantic Trail, an eight-day trek available from September to May. It includes six days on horseback, with an option for classical instruction – three lessons spread throughout the week. It costs £674, based on two people sharing. Breakfast and lunch are included and, on the first and last night, an evening meal.
Taxi transfers are available to and from Faro airport.
Vila Nova de Milfontes, +351 283 998 106, www.cdaportugal.com
Pinetrees Riding Centre (Algarve)
This well-established British-run centre is approved by the Association of British Riding Schools (ABRS). Twenty minutes from Faro airport, it lies 5km south of Almancil between Quinta do Lago and Vale de Lobo. Pinetrees offers lessons and rides for all abilities including youngsters and complete ¬– ideal for a family holiday with mixed riding skills. The Principal is Beverley Gibbons who passed her BHS (British Horse Society) exams at the prestigious Talland School of Equitation, Gloucestershire. You can either pay €30 for a one-hour group lesson or buy a 10-hour holiday discount card for €250.
Casa dos Pinheiros, Estrada de Ancão, Almancil +351 289 394 369, www.pinetrees. ridingcentre.com
Quinta do Paraíso Alto (Algarve)
This small British-run riding centre, in the hills of western Algarve, is run by Jinny Harman and her UK qualified team. Lessons are available for novices or “rusty riders.” Among the courses they offer is a three-day beginner’s course for €120. Bensafrim, Lagos, Algarve +351 282 687263, www.qpahorseriding.com
Webtrail
Other useful sites:
www.rideworldwide.com
www.equitour.co.uk
www.inthesaddle.com
www.sussex. lusitanos.co.uk
www.unicorntrails.com
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